Monday, October 8, 2018




Views from our day: first sight of Lake Michigan, the mighty Mac, fall color near Grayling.
HOME AGAIN!  Today it was 351 miles from Escanaba MI to St. Johns!  The first 140 miles on the northern edge of Lake Michigan, on 2-lane route 2, were in pouring rain.  The Mighty Mac bridge was largely in fog and there were high-wind warnings for trucks and RVs.  You could only see one tower at a time due to the low visibility.  But the further south we got into the lower peninsula the brighter and drier it became, and warmer as well.  By the time we got to St. Johns it was hot and muggy with the temp in the mid-80s, 30+ degrees warmer than in the U.P.
It was a great trip, even better than we had anticipated.  All arrangements Alice had worked out in advance went perfectly, and we did some editing as we went along which also went well.  We had 4 inches of snow in Sheridan WY just before we crossed the Bighorn Mountains en route to Cody but nothing that slowed us down very much.  Overall, we were blessed with excellent weather.  It probably wouldn't be wise to travel out there much later because forecasts of snow were becoming more frequent, especially up in Montana and North Dakota.
Thanks to Suzie for taking great care of Casa Murphy over the 25 days we were gone.
Total mileage was 4,272.  79 hrs 13 mins on the road.
Take care all.
P.S.  Fall colors in the U.P. we're great.  It's still mainly green down here in St. Johns.
Sargasso Sea? Parasites?

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Silly string?

Another 400-mile day, 434 to be specific.  Owatonna MN to Escanaba MI.  Yes!  We are once again on Michigan soil and it feels very good although we're sad to be nearing the end of another terrific road trip.  We rolled into Escanaba with no hotel reservations so we stopped at an old Quality Inn and stood in line with a large group of semi-drunken Cubans.  We don't really know why the tipsy Cubans were in Escanaba but when I told them I had once lived in Puerto Rico we all got along like longtime amigos!
We've had perfect traveling weather so far but we're expecting tomorrow to be partly rainy and that could affect our plans.  We may head for the barn or, if the weather is really nice, make another stop somewhere between here and home.
We should mention that the fall colors up here have been knockout gorgeous!
Take care all!
P.S.  Right after telling Alice that I had once been stopped in Wisconsin for speeding just a few mph over the limit guess what!  It happened again.  A cop going in the opposite direction on 2-lane Wisconsin rt. 8 did a dramatic Uey and chased me down.  But when I stopped near the parking lot of a Northwoods bar he seemed very uneasy about being seen there and after shaking hands said he had another call and told me I was free to go.  Whew!
Jungle land.

Saturday, October 6, 2018



Views of the Missouri River from the Chamberlin, SD rest area.


Giant rabbit, short grass prarie as far as the eye can see, hugh fields of sunflowers ready to harvest.
424 miles today, Pierre SD to Owatonna MN (about 60 miles south of Minneapolis).  Good trip, except that along the way we listened to MSU's truly poor football performance in its game with Nortwestern, which we lost!  Very disappointing!  This could be a very poor season of football for the Spartans.
To clarify my comment about having experienced three hotel evacuations because of fire alarms...one was last night and the other two were over the period of about 15-20 years.  They were not all on this trip, thank goodness.
Tomorrow we plan to head to Rhinelander, Wisconsin, a town we've been to many times while doing research at the Enterprise Radiation Site in the local forest.
We expect some rain but at least there's no forecast of snow...as was the case in northern Minnesota.
Take care all!

Friday, October 5, 2018


View of the Missouri River from our hotel room.





Museum views


Interesting item at the museum. View of Pierre and the Capitol building from the museum.


Our peregrine travel companion today.





Badlands on a cloudy day.
157 miles today, Wall SD to Pierre (pronounced "Pier") SD, with a complete circuit of Badlands National Park as we left Wall.  The Park is just as spectacular as we remembered it from several visits in recent years.
In Pierre (capitol of SD) we spent 2.5 hours at the South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center, a facility we've always enjoyed.  Their collections of Native American artifacts and other materials is outstanding, stunning.  Their most famous artifact is the Horse Effigy Stick collected by a missionary at a Sioux reservation in the late 1800s.  We'll attach a picture or two.  The three-dimensional carved horse represents a warrior's brave steed, bullet wounds along its body, and interpreted to be leaping to its death.  It is a stunning example of Native American art and is a well known symbol throughout the State.  A true Native American icon.
We're still not sure about plans for tomorrow.  We'll be keeping an eye on weather patterns which recently have been very unstable in the eastern states.  Midwest as well.
Take care all.

Thursday, October 4, 2018

This photo, taken at the museum in Spearfish, shows a shotgun that was used by the murdered driver of the Deadwood stagecoach. The label above the gun indicates that it is on loan from Jim and Peg Aplan, the folks we met with today.
113 miles today in fierce relentlessly buffeting headwinds as we drove from Spearfish SD to Wall SD where we are for one night.
The highlight today was a visit with Jim and Peg Aplan at their ancient western antiques shop off a dirt road in rural Piedmont, about 10 miles east of Sturgis SD.  The Aplans are well up in their 80s and are famous dealers throughout the West.  We first met them many years ago.  We kept seeing their name associated with great western items on display in various museums so we went to their shop, bought some Native American rarities, and have visited them every time we've been West since.  We've become old friends.  Their shop is packed floor to ceiling with wonderful things, ranging from dozens of early western rifles and pistols, to beautiful American Indian clothing and beadwork...the sorts of things you rarely see anywhere else.  But seeing it at the Aplan's shop is not easy because everything is piled high and you have to carefully pick your way around on aisles that are just inches wide.  We saw an old cavalry flag hanging on a wall and were interested in buying it but there was absolutely no way to get at it without moving a ton of stuff piled in front of it.  Among the Aplan's other customers are Hank Williams Jr., Tom Selleck and a long list of other celebs.  Those folks tend to do most of their buying at the national level shows where the Aplans set up.  We feel honored to be welcomed at their shop, attached to their home, whenever we're in South Dakota.  They keep telling us just to visit, even when we're not in buying mode.  (But we did buy a large old, very folksy, advertising thermometer today, promoting horse liniment.  It's about 3 feet tall and has good graphics.  Very Western.)
Lunch was buffalo burgers at legendary Wall Drugs, just down the street from our motel.  Tomorrow we plan to head to Pierre SD.
TAKE CARE ALL!
P.S.  After two weeks of buffalo burgers we are beginning to be concerned about our impact on that magnificent symbol of the Old West.

Wednesday, October 3, 2018



1. CAPTION NEEDED FROM EACH OF YOU, not to include idiot,  fool, weird or jerk! Morning view from the hotel grounds. View from the museum in Spearfish.


You can see the tower at 20 miles. You can also see how  the Black Hills gets the name. At 5he museum.
166 miles today, Buffalo WY to Spearfish SD.  Upon arrival we spent several hours at the High Plains Western Heritage Center.  We've been there before but it's an exceptionally interesting place and we were anxious to revisit.  The very modern facility is situated on a hill and offers fabulous views of the surrounding plains through its huge picture windows.
The drive over here from Buffalo was memorable for three main reasons:  
(1)  Illuminated sign warnings on I-90 alerted drivers to winds exceeding 40 mph.  The constant and often severe buffeting reminded me of flying in a small airplane.
(2)  The entertainment along the way could not have been more perfect.  It was a complete live Bruce Springsteen concert, one he gave in New Orleans, and he did many of our favorite songs that meshed perfectly with the dramatic scenery we were buffeting past.  It was on Sirius Radio, so no commercial interruptions.
(3)  Most exciting for me was our sighting of Devils Tower, from mile post 165 on I-90.  56 years ago John McIntyre and I drove from Syracuse NY to Washington State and I've always remembered that we spotted Devils Tower in the distance but didn't have time to get any closer.  Over the years I've been led to believe that it would not be possible to see Devils Tower from I-90 because it's 20 miles away!  I began to think we must have seen something other than the Tower back in 1962 as John and I cruised along.  But today, on a stretch of the Interstate we hadn't previously driven, Alice suddenly yelled out,  OH MY GOD!  THERE IT IS!!  CLEAR AS A BELL 20 MILES TO THE NORTH!  UNBELIEVABLE!
I DOVE ONTO THE ROAD SHOULDER AND BACKED INTO A PARKING AREA FOR SOME PICS.  I WAS VERY EXCITED TO CONFIRM THAT YOU ACTUALLY COULD SEE THE TOWER FROM I-90.  I'D CALL JOHN TO TELL HIM ABOUT THIS BUT MY GOOD FRIEND AND FRAT BRO DIED ABOUT TEN YEARS AGO.  VERY SAD.  I HAD BEEN HIS BEST MAN.
WE DON'T LAST VERY LONG BUT DEVILS TOWER WILL LIKELY BE THERE FOR MANY MANY MORE MILLION YEARS.
Take care all.

Tuesday, October 2, 2018


Can you see the sentinel on Pilot Hill? The soldiers killed in the Fetterman massacre were buried in the fenced in graveyard at the base of the hill and later moved to the Custer National Battlefield cemetery.




The Busy Bee restaurant made famous by the Longmire books and TV series. Buffalo (given a fictitious name) is the town the story is based in. We had coffee there this morning. Alice, the horse whisperer.  View from our hotel room. Sunrise this morning from our hotel.
70 miles today in and around Buffalo WY.  We spent this morning at the very interesting Gatchell Museum in downtown Buffalo.  It has many great exhibits relating to the history of the region, including the outlaws and various Indian conflicts.
After lunch at our favorite Mexican restaurant, one we've visited in past years, we drove 14 miles to Eucross where the author of the famous Longmire series of books has a ranch.  The town is little more than a few scattered houses and barns:  population 25.
Once back in Buffalo, we drove 20 miles to the site of Fort Phil Kearny, another favorite of ours.  The fort was established to protect travelers on the Bozeman Trail but because of constant Indian attacks, including the legendary Fetterman battle that killed 80 of the fort's soldiers, it was in operation only over the 1866-68 period.  After it was abandoned the Chyennes burned it to the ground.
The weather swings out here have been radical.  Just two days ago we were wearing heavy winter coats in Cody where temps were in the low 30s but today in Buffalo the temp hit low 80s, a swing of about 50 degrees.  This does wonders for the sinuses!
Our close friend Mike Scott went to Indonesia a week or so ago to do some diving.  Then the earthquake and tsunami hit regiion.  We sent an email asking if he were okay but have yet to get a response, hopefully because of poor internet connections over there, but we will be worried until we hear from him.  We're not sure where in Indonesia he had planned to be.
Please take care, all.

The backyard of our hotel here in Buffalo